Route Overview
About this Tour
The North Coast 500 is not a historic path, but a strategic marketing construct from 2015 based on the old trade routes of the Highlands. Nevertheless, the route feels as if it was made for those seeking solitude for centuries. You start in Inverness, where the smell of burnt diesel meets the salty breeze of the Moray Firth. The 830-kilometer loop is a physical challenge for any chassis over six meters in length. Here, not speed rules, but the law of 'Passing Places' – small bulges in the single-lane asphalt that determine the rhythm of the journey. During the drive, the light changes by the minute: from a leaden gray over the barren mountains of Wester Ross to a glistening silver when the sun hits the surf at Durness. Historically, you traverse the land of the 'Clearances', in which small farmers were displaced in the 18th and 19th centuries to make room for sheep – a melancholy that can still be felt today in the ruins of the stone walls along the road. In a motorhome, you are not a tourist here, but a navigator. You have to precisely calculate the tides of tourist flows and the capacities of local infrastructure, because the Scottish Highlands do not forgive poor planning.
Your Journey in Detail
🏰The Starting Point: Inverness and the Gateway to the Wilderness
Your journey begins in Inverness [57.4778, -4.2247], the logistical hub of the north. Before you leave the city, head for the 'Bught Park Caravan Park'. For around 38 euros per night you get a solid pitch here with electricity connection, ideal for filling the water tanks one last time. Culinarially, you shouldn't waste time in the pubs of the city center, but pay a visit to the local fishmongers. A piece of Hot Smoked Salmon directly at the harbor costs you around 12 euros and is the best catering for the upcoming barren stages. Historically, the nearby Culloden battlefield is a must. The last Jacobite uprising ended here in 1746. It smells of damp heather and history. The road leads you from here west towards Garve. Watch out for the A835; it is still two-lane and tempts to speed, but the first bumps already announce the end of comfortable civilization. Your destination for the first evening is the area around Loch Carron. Here you will find smaller, private pitches that often cost no more than 25 euros, but offer an unobstructed view of the dark waters of the loch.
🏔️The Stress Test: Applecross and the Bealach na Bà
The Applecross Pass (Bealach na Bà) [57.433, -5.69] is the bottleneck of the entire route. It is the third highest road in Scotland, winding up from sea level to 626 meters. Warning signs explicitly state that trailers and inexperienced drivers should turn back here. The gradient reaches 20 %, and in the six tight hairpin bends at the summit you have to place your motorhome exactly. If you drive a vehicle over 7 meters long, this section is a technical risk for your clutch. It smells of hot rubber and brake pads when you reach the top of the pass. Once at the top, the parking lot offers space for about ten vehicles. On a clear day you look over the sea to the Isle of Skye and the Outer Hebrides. The light is harder up here, the wind constantly pulls at the roof hatches. After the descent into the remote village of Applecross, the parking lot at the 'Applecross Inn' is a good place for a break. A plate of fresh langoustines (Cullen Skink or local seafood platters cost approx. 22 euros) is the reward for the nervous tension. Be warned: the onward journey along the coast towards Shieldaig is less steep, but the road is so narrow that reversing into the next passing place must become routine as soon as a local mail bus or another camper comes towards you.
🥃The North and the End of the World: Durness to Inverness
The drive to Durness in the far north marks the loneliest part of the route. The landscape changes from rugged peaks to white sandy beaches that look almost tropical, were it not for the water temperature of 12 degrees. In Durness you should head for the 'Sango Sands Oasis' campsite. For about 32 euros you stand directly on the cliffs. The noise of the surf is deafening at night, but the view of the North Atlantic is incomparable. A short walk leads you to Smoo Cave, a sea cave with a 20-meter high waterfall inside. Entry is free, guided tours to the deeper chambers cost around 10 euros. The way back leads you via the A838 along Loch Shin. Here the road becomes wider again, which represents an enormous relief after days of concentration. The distances between gas stations become critical here; in Lairg you should definitely catch up. The NC500 closes again in Inverness. After 830 kilometers you will find that your average speed was rarely above 40 km/h. The journey ends where it began, but your understanding of the mechanics of your vehicle and Scottish weather resistance will be a different one. The NC500 is not a vacation, it is an expedition into the logistics of slow travel.
💡Practical Tips
- ✓Your motorhome should ideally not be longer than 6.50 meters. Many sections, especially the Bealach na Bà and the coastal road at Drumbeg, are a nightmare for large integrated ones. There are no tolls, but you pay the 'toll' in the form of increased brake and tire wear. Daily check your tire pressure and brake fluid. If you have a rental vehicle, make sure that damage from branches (side walls!) is insured, as the gorse bushes often protrude into the lane.
- ✓Avoid the months of July and August. Not because of the heat, which rarely makes it over 20 degrees here, but because of the Highland midges (biting midges). These tiny pests make every evening outside the camper a torment. The best time is May or September: the light is softer for photos, the roads are emptier and prices for pitches drop by about 15 %. In winter, many campsites and even pass roads are completely closed due to snowdrifts.
- ✓Gas stations are sparsely sown in the north. In places like Scourie or Durness you pay up to 20 cents more per liter than in Inverness. Use every opportunity to keep the diesel tank above the 50 % mark. Supermarkets like Tesco or Morrisons can only be found in Inverness and Wick; in between you are dependent on small 'General Stores' that are charming but expensive. Disposal of grey water and chemical WC is only permitted on official sites; wild disposal leads to hard sanctions by local municipalities.
At a Glance
Duration
7-10 Days
Distance
830 km
Difficulty
Challenging
Highlights
- ⭐Applecross Pass (Bealach na Bà)
- ⭐Beaches of Durness
- ⭐John o' Groats
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