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Imagine opening the sliding door of your van early in the morning and looking directly at the bizarre peaks of the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks. While hotel guests are still sitting at breakfast, you are already standing with a steaming cup of coffee in your hand, feeling the cool, clear air rising from the deep rock crevices. Camping here means becoming one with a landscape shaped by wind and water over millions of years. The silence in the evening, once the day tourists have departed, is almost palpable. You only hear the distant rushing of the Metuje river and the crackling of pine needles under your steps.

The region in northeastern Czechia offers a unique blend of adventure and relaxation for motorhome travelers. The rock towers, some of which soar up to 80 meters into the sky, look like petrified giants. What makes this place so special for campers is the immediate proximity to nature. You don't have to drive for hours first – the hiking trails often start right behind your pitch. The best time for your Adršpach-Teplice Rocks camping experience is late spring and early autumn. In May, nature blooms, and in September, the mixed forests transform into a sea of colors, while temperatures are ideal for hiking. However, be aware that the summer months of July and August can get very crowded. As a camper, you have the ultimate advantage here: you can take advantage of the early morning hours or late afternoon when the light bathes the rocks in a magical gold and the crowds are long gone. Remember that it can be significantly cool in the rock gorges even in midsummer – a good heater in the van or a thick sleeping bag in the tent are worth their weight in gold here.

An absolute highlight you must not miss is the Gothic Gate. It forms the symbolic entrance to the actual rock city and looks like the set for a historical film. If you arrive with a motorhome, you should definitely reserve your parking space in Adršpach online in advance, as parking areas for larger vehicles are limited and you are often turned away without a reservation. Another must is the emerald-green lake in the former sand pit right at the entrance. A short circular path leads around the water – perfect for a first walk after arrival to stretch your legs after the drive.

For those who like it a bit wilder, the Teplice Rocks (Teplické skály) are the real insider tip. While Adršpach is more fairytale-like, the rocks in Teplice are more massive and the gorges deeper. Here you can leave the van in the hiking parking lot and immerse yourself in the Temple Walls. If you get hungry, you should definitely stop at one of the local mountain inns. A culinary insider tip is Smažený sýr (fried cheese) with Tatarská omáčka (tartar sauce). It is the honest, hearty cuisine of the region that tastes best after a long hike through the rocks. If you have a sweet tooth, look out for fresh Trdelník, a yeast dough baked over an open fire, whose scent often wafts through the pine forests from afar.

Anyone looking for a very special perspective should take part in the boat trip on the small rock lake in Adršpach. The ferrymen often tell humorous stories about rock formations such as the 'Lovers' or the 'Mayor'. But beware: long queues form here in high season. My tip: hike further into the Wolf Ravine instead, where you have nature almost to yourself. Here you feel the true wilderness of the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks, far off the beaten track.

Excursion Tip 1: The Classic Adršpach Rock Loop (4 km, approx. 3 hours)

Suitable for: Families and leisure hikers | Campervan, Motorhome, Car | Difficulty: easy

This tour is the perfect introduction to your camping adventure. Since the rush is great, you should definitely reserve your ticket and parking space online in advance. You start directly at the main entrance in Adršpach. You can park your motorhome in the official parking lot, which has reserved areas for larger vehicles. The path is well-maintained and first leads you past the picturesque azure lake (former quarry). A highlight of the route is the Sugar Loaf, a rock that stands on a surprisingly narrow base and is traditionally 'supported' by visitors with small sticks. After about two kilometers, you reach the Great Waterfall. The return path leads you past the Echo, where horn signals used to be played against the rock walls to demonstrate the impressive acoustics. The paths are partly sandy but easy to walk. At the end of the tour, a visit to the information center is recommended. For overnight stays, the campsite Bučnice is ideal, located directly between the two rock cities and providing an ideal base.

Excursion Tip 2: The Wild Crossing of the Wolf Ravine (10 km, approx. 5 hours)

Suitable for: Active hikers and nature purists | Campervan | Difficulty: challenging

This tour connects the Adršpach rocks with the Teplice rock city and is ideal for everyone who wants to spend the whole day in nature. You start in Teplice nad Metují (Teplice Rocks entrance), where you park your vehicle in the hikers' parking lot. From there, you follow the blue marking deep into the Teplice rocks. The walls move closer together here and the vegetation becomes more primeval. After approx. 4 km, you reach the entrance to the Wolf Ravine (Vlčí rokle). This section is particularly charming as it leads through a high moor and features numerous wooden boardwalks and ladders. It is damp, mossy, and wonderfully quiet. The ravine leads you all the way over to Adršpach. Since this is a point-to-point hike, the trick is the way back: just take the local train that shuttles between the stations 'Adršpach' and 'Teplice nad Metují skály'. The journey takes only about 10 minutes and the stops are each in the immediate vicinity of the rock entrances. This is real van-life feeling: spend the day in the rocks and in the evening comfortably fire up the grill at the motorhome while the sun disappears behind the pinnacles.

When it comes to camping Adršpach-Teplice Rocks, there are a few important things to consider so that your trip goes smoothly. First: wild camping is strictly forbidden throughout the Czech Republic and especially in nature reserves like this one, and is punished with heavy fines. Use the official sites instead. A highly recommended site is Autokemp Bučnice, which is strategically located exactly between the two rock cities. Here you will find everything you need: clean sanitary facilities, power connections, and often a small fire pit for the evening.

A critical point is the new online ticket system. To manage the flow of visitors, you must reserve both your entry and your parking ticket for the motorhome online in advance. Anyone arriving without a ticket risks standing in front of closed gates, especially on weekends. The supply situation is good: in Teplice nad Metují there are smaller supermarkets (Coop) where you can stock up on regional products such as Czech beer and pastries. The campsites are well-equipped for fresh water and wastewater disposal. A small insider tip: if you want to photograph the rock city, bring a tripod. It is often quite dark in the deep gorges, even when the sun is shining outside. And pay attention to sturdy footwear – the sandstone can be very slippery when damp. If you are traveling with a dog, this is not a problem, but they must be kept strictly on a leash and in some sections, dogs must wear a muzzle if it gets narrow.