Discovering the Vilaine

The Vilaine is France's best-kept houseboat secret. While everyone looks towards the Midi, here you cruise through Brittany – and have the river almost to yourself. The route leads from Redon (the tidal town with three rivers) to the Arzal lock, where the Atlantic begins. In between: stone houses with wisteria pergolas, Romanesque chapels among oaks, and crêperies on every corner. Brittany tastes like salted caramel butter and dry cider. 13 locks over 85 km – that is relaxed. Most are automated; you just press a button. There is plenty of time for shore excursions: La Gacilly (home of Yves Rocher, with 500,000 flowers in the village), Rochefort-en-Terre ('Most Beautiful Village in France' 2016), and Redon with its historic chestnut port. Bonus for adventurers: From Arzal, you can reach the Atlantic (with a tide table!). Quiberon Bay is just 2 hours away. Hard Facts: No license required • 13 locks (automated) • Tidal zone from Arzal • Best time: June-September • Crêpe density: high!